In the olden ages, precious metals like gold and silver were easily available and very cheap. Sometimes these metals were used for producing the real zari threads. The word Zari comes from a village called Zari itself located in ancient Persia (today’s Iran). In this village, artisans used their talented weaving skills to weave thin threads of gold and silver onto a fine fabric of silk.
The Zari or Jari is one of the finest threads that are traditionally created of fine silver or gold. These threads are commonly used in various traditional garments of Pakistan and India like brocade in saris, dupattas, etc. In the olden ages, golden embroidery was used for the dresses of gods, kings, and literary gurus, etc.
However, during the Mughal rule, its popularity increased and was commonly used by the rich. In today’s era, zari is not created from real gold and silver. Cotton or polyester yarns are used and these are wrapped using silver or gold metallic yarn.
The Zari is designed by twisting the flattened metallic strips that are made of pure gold, silver, or metallic polyester that are filmed around the yarn made of cotton, polyester, silk, etc. Now, these Zari threads are processed for increasing the brightness of the gold plating. Through this, it represents an aesthetic look.
Zari is the main and commonly used decorative material used in most silk saris and ghagra. Also, it is used in other garments made of silk, like the lehengas (skirts), cholis (blouses), dhotis, kurtas, etc.
Original Zari has the unique characteristic of being created using pure gold and silver. These unique ones would be made from 24-carat gold and 98.5 percent silver. Furthermore, the original one is vibrant and detailed compared to the imitation one. Plus the gold and silver plated zari is heavier and would last for a longer period, and is commonly passed down from mother to daughter and so on.
Also called pure Zari, it is made from the finest gold and silver thread. These would be drawn from the gold and silver alloys that get flattened when passing through equal pressure rotating rollers.
Here the flattened silk threads would be wound on the base yarn that is made of silk. After that, these reels of silk would be further flattened for electroplating. Then the treads are plated on with gold through the electroplating procedure. Later on, the luster of the gold-covered threads are increased as and when they pass through a brightener.
Also called a Tested Zari, this one is designed using copper wires. The copper-based wires are drawn from copper alloy. Here it would go through the same procedure of pressure process, but in this case, they would be electroplated along with silver. After that, they would be wounded up right around the base yarn and then reeled. Such type of Zari sari is very less expensive compared to the pure zari, as the silver electroplated copper is very much economical.
This is considered the modern version of the Zari and it replaces the traditional metals like silver, gold, and copper. Not only this Zari sari is resistant, but it is also light in weight and durable. Additionally, it is non-tarnishing and easily maintains its luster for a longer period.
At Weaveinindia, we showcase the elegance in various saris, and among them are the intricate patterns of the Zari. We exhibit vibrant Paithani, Banarasi, classic Kanjivaram sari, along with a dupatta that is designed with pure silver and gold Zari having aesthetic embellishments.
So, go ahead and get your own weaving tale of tradition that shows off the contemporary women in you from Weaveinindia.