How to Identify a Genuine Patan Patola Saree

Patan Patola sarees are one of the most exquisite and revered textiles in India, crafted through a meticulous, hand-dyed double-ikat weaving technique. 

Originating from Patan, Gujarat, each piece is a labor of love, taking weeks, if not months, to create. Due to their craftsmanship and cultural significance, these sarees come with a high price tag—and unfortunately, this also means that imitation pieces are widespread. 

If you're in the market for a real Patan Patola, here are some essential tips to help you identify a genuine one.

1. Understand the Double-Ikat Technique

Patan Patola sarees are known for their intricate double-ikat technique, where both the warp and weft threads are dyed before weaving. 

This is incredibly complex and time-consuming, as every color and design needs precise alignment. 

When held up to the light, a genuine Patan Patola saree will display a mirrored design on both sides, showcasing an impeccable level of detail and symmetry.

Pro Tip: Look for the same pattern and color intensity on both sides. If you see any fading or asymmetry, it may be a sign that the saree isn’t a true Patan Patola.

2. Examine the Fabric Quality

Fuchsia Pink Double Ikat Patan Patola Silk Saree

Original Patan Patola sarees are usually made of high-quality silk, known for its sheen, durability, and soft feel. 

Imitations may use synthetic silk or low-quality silk that lacks the characteristic luster. Genuine silk has a subtle, smooth shine under natural light and a rich feel to the touch.

Pro Tip: Lightly rub the fabric; authentic silk will feel cool and smooth, while synthetic alternatives may feel warmer and rougher.

3. Check the Design Patterns and Motifs

Traditional Patan Patola sarees often feature complex patterns like geometric shapes, floral motifs, and animal figures, each with cultural significance.

Carved Patola (Double Ikat) pattern on a wall in Gujrat.

PC: ephotocorp

Popular designs include elephants, parrots, flowers, and religious symbols, which often carry a specific meaning. Real Patan Patola sarees showcase patterns that are precise and detailed. Poor imitations often reveal blurring, uneven lines, or misaligned patterns.

Pro Tip: A genuine Patan Patola will have sharp, precise patterns and will be vibrant without any patchy areas.

4. Assess the Dyes Used

Authentic Patan Patola sarees use natural, vegetable-based dyes, which are both vibrant and durable. These dyes tend to mature beautifully over time rather than fading out. On the other hand, fake Patan Patolas often use chemical dyes that can look unnaturally bright or tend to fade quickly.

Pro Tip: Ask the seller about the dyeing process. Natural dyes often result in a slightly more muted, natural color compared to synthetic dyes.

5. Evaluate the Price and Source

Due to the skill and time involved, a genuine Patan Patola saree comes with a premium price. Prices can start from INR 1 lakh and go much higher depending on the intricacy of the design and quality of silk.

If a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is. Additionally, always buy from reputable sellers or directly from weavers to ensure authenticity.

Pro Tip: Research Patan-based artisans or recognized retailers who have an established history of selling genuine Patola sarees.

Final Thoughts

Owning a Patan Patola saree is like owning a piece of art and history. By understanding these essential markers of authenticity, you can confidently make a purchase that celebrates the legacy and skill of Indian handloom. Happy saree shopping!